trouble codes showed ABS pump, swapping it didn’t help
Apparently a common hack
I see jumper cables, guessing that’s a 12 volt battery access point
CEL = Check Engine Light
Power Limit means no high voltage
OBD or CAN port on Win7
OBD = Onboard Diagnostics
CAN = Controller Area Network
He is only running can low and can high, common misconception. It can work but it is unreliable. At a third wire. Ground.
I don’t care what anybody says, CAN IS A GROUND REFERENCED DIFFERENTIAL SIGNAL.
Yes I know the difference between single and it and differential communication. Yes differential communication is still ground referenced. Yes you can get it to work without ground. Yes you will waste hours and hours and hours and hours and hours and hours and hours.
I don’t care if that’s how an OEM did it, they did it wrong.
COM 3.08
That’s just a standard packet logger presumably, with some basic parsing, Running at 38,400 baud
You have to make sure CAN low and can hi are oriented correctly
Looks like he is about to use sublime, That’s a free editor. He’s probably going to be parsing hex (hexadecimal)
Now he’s using something called savvy can which he says he got off of GitHub. No doubt it just has a lookup table of different parsing patterns
He is parsing against this DBC file downloaded from the think forums. That’s just going to extract the packets and interpret them
It’s just pattern matching, You can do it by hand but it takes a while
I assume the reader understands the tenuous balance between VALUE and LIABILITY. (lol)
COVID sparked a fresh wave of “Van Life”… this misconception that you can buy a mobile house and beat the game of life. The reality is far from the dream, and key phrases like the following are your first clue
Rat Infestation
Wet-Rot Wood
Mold infested fabrics
Broken Down Engine
Nowhere to park
Dumping Black water
Registration, Insurance, …
Right? So we will get into a longer story later, but the TL;DR is that folks buy a roached out RV thinking that they can live in there and…
Well… things do not always work out. In the industry we call it “Triple P”
Piss
Poor
Planning
Quickly one finds that the project is FAR beyond the scope of their capabilities and understanding. RV’s are built like boats… but with inferior materials. Every single bit of it is stapled, glued, laminated, FUCKING GARBAGE that is totally un-reworkable and a nightmare in full.
Boats… are built just as fucked, but at least they have to use higher quality materials.
RV’s… are built of balsa wood and cheap vinyl
So to fast forward for you…
The Humans fail to make the space livable
The roof leaks
The studs are rotten
The fabrics are unsalvagable
So… you then “GUT” the RV
Believe it or not… that actually VASTLY increases the value of the vessel! All that liability and labor is out of the way and now you can
Check for leaks
Check for creaks
Seal the mouse holes
Seal the roof
Ah……
But -> What folks seem to not understand… is that this either COSTS MONEY or TAKES TIME AND SKILLS. If you dont have an epic skillset for salvaging, all the free time in the world, a solid background in DIY building, a willingness to spend in the right places…
Well… then you FAIL
That is where this story starts. In the failing of “Van Life” aspirations, turned liability. Our target is something that
May or may not be registered
May or may not run or even have an engine
May or may not have a leaking roof
May or may not have DOT tires rolling
May or may not have mice
May or may not have an interior….
It may or may not have an Ingress Rating (IP Rating) sufficient for our purposes
Enter my Application
We need “Mobile Stationary Storage” Basically we need a dry spot on wheels to house thousands of pounds of lithium batteries
🙂
Source: Toothy Smile Search
Are you starting to smell what I am stepping in?
Find a half finished RV or Trailer project that is TOO FUCKED to recover
Haggle down the price by the ACTUAL and CURRENT cost of materials
Derail their project
Instead of building a human habitat, build a Battery and Inverter habitat
It will have many properties that we desire*
The ability to built it in one place and deploy it in another
All the learnings and backing of standard procedures for sealing
Nice soft suspension
Assumed IP Rating
Reasonable Security
Yea you could sleep in there…
It will likely come with many things you need!
A big flat surface on top for panels
A big flat surface inside for batteries
A bunch of walls for mounting inverters
Possibly even more….
An AC cooling system compliant with 12V and vibration rated
Facilities for passing AC 120V 30A in and out
Inherent Stealth Mode
The most interesting aspect is the MOBILE part of “Mobile Stationary Storage”. The ultimate is of course a Transportainer…. but one thing everybody misses is the HUGE TILT you suffer when you move one
Better strap your load bruh!
…
Anyhow I have for many years toyed with the idea of utilizing Cars, RV’s, and Trailers for use as “Battery Housings”. To date I have not had a project LARGE enough to justify such a large space. I now do… with the help of Battery Hookup and poor Chinese Manufacturing… The market is flooding with pull-down lithium in truckloads.
…
Before you scoff Do some math on how YOU would try to stow cubic yards of cycling lithium.
209XR is a wonder material and priced accordingly. The outgas is horrific but it will set up under water in cold conditions. The setup has 2 stages
Initial adheasion
Outgas curing
The 208R will not work as well in cold. It is too stiff and requires WAY too much force to apply (get your initial adhesion). It then does not have sufficient “properties” (elastomer or polymer) to sufficiently cure as the solvents evaporate
208R in the Hot Wet
209XR in the Cold Wet
If you want to get into regular old 208… that testing is not of interest to me.
….
Next Up? Preemptive Dry Applications which are not (felt + grip tape), are low cost, can cross-pollinate to mobile and non-wood applications.
Roof Coatings!
….
Then after that
Actual Roofs
Applied to Specification
But … by Schindlers Method… we master an activity by first learning the W H Y of proper methods and ways by S U F F E R I N G the consequences of alternate methods and ways. Folks who live in an RV will understand.
You cant use “Roofing Technology” to fix your RV ( LOL)
Just picture someone rolling on grip tape (aggregate) with felt (LOL)
They are F A R more likely to converge on a Silicone or Acrylic roll-on
And… that is what we are actually after here. What materials from the “Roofing Community” can we harness in the building of Solar Outhouses.
Assume-not… that a solar outhouse will be made of wood and stationary! It is far more likely to be built of salvaged materials and mobile. That being the case, my studies into “Patch Materials” (specifically WET patch) are paying out dividents.
SURE
Anybody can wait until the hottest summer day to perfectly apply a bead of clear silicone. That aint the day that you will discover roof leaks on your 42KWH battery.
They ARE quite honest and I am clearly using the material outside of specification. Too bad I did not read that description before picking up a load of them! Obviously they can not perform 100% inspection. As they average out over 100,000’s… they are a good value
BUT
What happens in practice is that every asshole in town “sorts the stack” taking the select materials from the pallet, leaving behind a concentration of fucker’ed wood. That is to be expected* …
WHERE THE TROUBLE LIES
Is that Home Depot does not have a clear enough policy by which to dispatch with “the bottoms” of what is left after the fearless men and woman perform the first distillation. It turns out they (Home Depot) DO have a policy, but you have to know about it. Basically, if you are willing to take the fuckered wood, they will give you a discount. Anywhere from 20% to 70%, depending on fuckered-ness
AT TIME OF PURCHASE, I WAS NOT HIP – DOH
So… Schindler over here is now “testing” (aka stuck with) some of the absolute worst plywood available in a grossly exposed condition.
Many of these clearly do not hit the advertised specification. The knot holes are fine, but you cant have too many of them grouped together on different laminations.
Anyhow, that is not what this story is about. The prices of wood went INSANE during COVID and I was happy to be able to get any wood at all! I will admit that I was caught off guard when this plywood did not perform like plywood’s of the past…
BUT
They clearly state in the description that the wood is garbage. And… the wood presents as garbage. So… sigh… Schindler has to own this folly.
O N W A R D To how to make due with what is available. Elasticized Roofing Tars that are Wet Application Rated.
FINDINGS
209XR is the real deal but expensive
208R is too stiff in the cold
208 is not in the running
In every case I applied under harsh conditions. Often cold but always wet. I found the following in my experiment
209XR without fabric will last up to a season but will fail on you. This is where you just gum the seams with an overcoat
208R with fabric applied in the cold can result in mass delamination’s, EVEN IF… you felt like you had sufficient bond at time of application. There is the initial bond then the bond that occurs as the volatile solvents evaporate. In the cold/wet the 208R simply does not perform as well as the 209XR. It is S T I F F… and it does not set up as reliably. I would use the 208R in the Summer
At this point I dont know how many seasons I am in to my testing. At least 2, maybe 3. I have all my seams patched and now I am on to what Engineers call “Latent Failure”. These are 2nd order and 3rd order failure modes which do not appear for many months or years.
OBVIOUSLY
If you practice proper roofing you never experience any of this. That is a different exercise. What we are doing here is “Shed Technology”. How do you use nothing but plywood and some goop to make a low slope flat roof that holds up
TL;DR
You will develop leaks
You will then have to patch those with cloth
The cloth will then create high spots
High spots create puddles
Puddles exasperate low quality plywood
Blah blah blah
So… The next thing we are going to evaluate is the Roll-On cheap sealant. NOT the silicone! The Acrylic.
That will upgrade the underperforming plywood to a standard that MIGHT actually pass the 5 year test.
So if I had it to do over…. And assuming we do not use “standard” roofing practices…. (which OBVIOUSLY work) I would go about it like this
Double rafters around any joints to allow for secure attachment
Stagger placement to avoid continuous seams
SPACE the plywood with at least a 1/8″ gap, maybe 1/4″ or more
Fill the gaps with Silicone in the summer or 209XR in the rain
After everything cures, roll $99 of Acrylic over it (can be re-applied)
That should result in a ” low slope shed roof” that has the following properties
Does not buckel
Does not buckel
Does not buckel
Does not leak
Appears Uniform (white)
Not too slippery (silicone has a lot of issues…)
Not involving felt, tarpaper, roll-on roof
At the end of that fight… you will come to an even better conclusion
Stagger your plywood, dont bother doubling rafters
Gap your plywood to avoid buckling, or KEEP IT DRY
Felt the entire surface, think of felt as tar paper or a vapor barrier
Roll on the grip tape and seal the seams
Dont trap any water, let it escape on the down hill side
We will eventually work toward that, but not until I extract the MAXIMUM LEARNINGS from my Roofing Adventure.
At present
Two leaks
I just patched those with 209XR, under water, on a cold morning, using roofing toilet paper. We will see how it holds up. Those fucking knot holes are what got me! I painted all my plywood with a primer sufficient to fend off SOME water… but… not enough. Any pooling water what so ever will find one of those knots… and
5 plys
Knot at the top
Connects to middle channels and knots
Ends at a knot inside that drips on my head and batteries
Sigh Quite the adventure this has been. It will probably end with me tearing up the temporary work and finishing with something that actually works. In the mean time… I have enjoyed >90% dry work area for my fumblings.
It is 0500 and the rain just started. I hear the water starting to pool and drain off of the umbrellas. I am sitting under my arbor, still dry.
I guess that rain dictates my actions for the day. I need to get my personal assets out of the exposed and into the enclosed.
Stuff…..
Its an anchor and a sail. At present my illustrious stack of credentials is sitting out in the rain. Oh well. Not a single person ever asked to see any of my diplomas, and since earning them… I have never had a place to post them for viewing.
I did once bring my “stack” into work to break a circular logic argument, but my boss at the time said “Don’t ever bring this in here again” – lol
hmmmm….
When a man wakes up at 0420 on his day off, he must have SOMETHING he really wants to get done.
SOME THINGS?
You will find that nearly all interactions in English lead to some trap of fallacy. You learn to step around it, but it’s annoying. The language itself is built in a way that drives it.
I can write in at least 16 languages, maybe 32 depending on how you count. Most of them are languages of logic, not languages of persuasion.
Persuasion isn’t effective against a logical machine built of circuits…. Or at least it wasn’t until now. Ultimately it still isn’t, so that means we are now writing illogical code.
It is a trap of Logical Fallacy to publish a set of “demands” while exercising your right of Protest. I see bulleted lists coming out of this local movement.
I would avoid doing so, if your ultimate goal is Radical Change. If the subject is serious enough to draw you out in the street…. Then the list of demand should be self evident.
Let the group you are agitating issue the perceived set of demands and allow them to justify their position.
I went so far as to rent a “known good” same model from the range. Turns out Murphy’s law works!
Since I actually spent the money to rent a known good….
mind fired reliably!
I sent a box down range (end of target sled) and had only a single misfire out of 50 rounds. I think that one could be written up to limp wrist because it went on the second pull.
This is what my brass looks like now…. And that’s what we were looking for!
Blazer
IIRC THOSE RUN CCI PRIMERS?
So take a wild guess at what brand I’m going to purchase, lol. I am going to give away the 1,100 primers I have and pick up a brick of something that might work better with this weapon.
dude, Don’t get ripped off… Get hooked up… At battery hookup!
I didn’t do the kilowatt-hour math… But those individual cells are 230 amp hours each!!??!!!!
44 of them
You only need 16 to make a solar pack. 12KWh modules, almost enough to make three modules. That is extreme off-grid, total energy independence, Penny’s on the dollar.
this reality won’t last…. Or maybe it will get even better? 😉
