Month: May 2024

Ok, that was the hardest part. Now I have 6hrs that someone waking up at 9:30 does not have.

Cost

• Pain
• Fatigue
• Confusion

Reward

• 6 hours off the books
• Watching the Sun Rise
• Hearing the World turn on

-Schindler

Learning way more then I ever thought I would need to know….

Who knew that chainsaws didn’t just throw ribbon 24/7, after you run your new one into the rocks, mud, and rubber tree, battery after battery

-Schindler

five fire engines, 10 cops, parked

No Escape

It’s shaking up to be an excellent day. At least I’m sitting in this traffic at 2:15 and not 6:15.

-Schindler

Below I have dismantled some factory Blazer Ammo and compared the primers to standard #500 CCi small pistol. Blazer is owned by CCi, the box says “CCi” primers, so I was surprised to find that the aftermarket primers are nothing like those found in Factory ammo.

These were struck with a Bersa Firestorm (aka California Thunder, California Blunder, Thunder Blunder, the Soft-hit monkey…..). No powder or projectile. Testing purposes only.

The two on the left are straight out of a box of Blazer, knocked down, resized, pressed, and struck. The two on the right are the same range brass, but packed with no. 500 aftermarket CCI primers, using the same process.

There is a true night and day difference! The factory-loaded CCi primers totally deformed, they much be must softer or thinner material! …. The aftermarket primers show no sign of deformation… but they DID light off, that is NOT a soft hit. Wow.

• The aftermarket primers are probably harder/thicker to be less likely to light off in a DIY press eh?
• No doubt the robots at CCi can press much more sensitive primers without freckling their face

The video above shows that the CCi (or WHATEVER) primers shipping in Blazer (a CCi company) are 112mils tall while the aftermarket are 118mils tall. 5 or 6 thousandths seems like a lot to me. Turns out it was!

Totally different primer in every way. I suppose other people already knew this (I have been told), but I am just proving it for myself now. I never really took the time to observe the difference.

Well…. There you go. PRIMERS ARE NOT PRIMERS ARE NOT PRIMERS….

When you shoot a piece of shit, unreliable gun.

• It shoots very straight
• It fits my hand very well
• It is very light
• I feel very little recoil
• It racks easy enough
• Its small
• It comes back on target FAST
• ….

I like everything about the Bersa Firestrom except:

• It is totally and completely unreliable (at least mine)
• It can only shoot CCi primers (for WHATEVER reason…)
• The double action / single action transition throws you WAY off
• The decocker makes me nervous as hell – claptrap
• The magazine interlock is obnoxious (you can remove it*)
• My hammer pin was set so tight that I had to BEAT it out
• There is not even a manual posted for it (that I could find)
• Parts fly everywhere when you disassemble the slide

WHICH YOU HAVE TO DO, ELSE IT WONT FIRE, LOL

… Meh, no sense complaining anymore. The gun will be used for teaching kids and blind ladies how to shoot. Its a perfect training gun for all ages.

• Shoots as easy and accurate as can be
• Breaks often enough to be interesting

-Schindler

(Temp reading incorrectly FYI)

Factory PCAN dongle is like $400 and extinct. This GODIAG had a driver pack that will drive your antivirus absolutely insane…

… If you can actually get it installed (I did), the next step is to hi-jack the pointer in the existing XML to reference your new resource…

… To get that you have to fight back Windows10 to allow file edit WITHOUT reverting (in program files), got that.

… Then you start getting scripting errors

lol – it’s like this every time. It will probably take about 3 days to just:

• Get the dongle drivers installed & tested
• Find those in the registry
• Get the XML writable from read/execute
• *CORRECTLY* redirect the XML pointers
• test
• ….

Step 1 is just shoving the driver you want down windows throat. To do that you have to know what the software expects (VCP, other)

SSDD

• Same Shit Different Day

-Schindler

trouble codes showed ABS pump, swapping it didn’t help

Apparently a common hack

I see jumper cables, guessing that’s a 12 volt battery access point

CEL = Check Engine Light

Power Limit means no high voltage

OBD or CAN port on Win7

OBD = Onboard Diagnostics

CAN = Controller Area Network

He is only running can low and can high, common misconception. It can work but it is unreliable. At a third wire. Ground.

I don’t care what anybody says, CAN IS A GROUND REFERENCED DIFFERENTIAL SIGNAL.

Yes I know the difference between single and it and differential communication. Yes differential communication is still ground referenced. Yes you can get it to work without ground. Yes you will waste hours and hours and hours and hours and hours and hours and hours.

I don’t care if that’s how an OEM did it, they did it wrong.

COM 3.08

That’s just a standard packet logger presumably, with some basic parsing, Running at 38,400 baud

You have to make sure CAN low and can hi are oriented correctly

Looks like he is about to use sublime, That’s a free editor. He’s probably going to be parsing hex (hexadecimal)

Now he’s using something called savvy can which he says he got off of GitHub. No doubt it just has a lookup table of different parsing patterns

He is parsing against this DBC file downloaded from the think forums. That’s just going to extract the packets and interpret them

It’s just pattern matching, You can do it by hand but it takes a while

PAUSE

Let’s go do it on the real thing

-Schindler

Schindlers DIY self-guided-therapy method. TL;DR, GTFW

• TL;DR = Too Long, Didn’t Read
• GTFW = Get To Fucking Work

This was after fighting the trailer in the pouring rain, having to drop it 6″ onto the ball, hoisting all the bins, ………

The Cost of Doing Business

-Schindler

We have two new phrases to introduce to your vocabulary.

• Guadalajara Tent City
• Condo Pussy

Learn about them and these informative videos!

That above is a Tarp Shelter (aka my “shop”)

This below is a description of the sad alternative…..

Choose Your Own Adventure (CYOA)

This is a feed for OUTDOOR CATS. Indoor cats please go sit In another litter box. This is my litter box.

-Schindler

This is a preview….

Source of all pics in this thread: https://www.google.com/search?q=disgusting+RV

I assume the reader understands the tenuous balance between VALUE and LIABILITY.
(lol)

COVID sparked a fresh wave of “Van Life”… this misconception that you can buy a mobile house and beat the game of life. The reality is far from the dream, and key phrases like the following are your first clue

• Rat Infestation
• Wet-Rot Wood
• Mold infested fabrics
• Broken Down Engine
• Nowhere to park
• Dumping Black water
• Registration, Insurance, …

Right?
So we will get into a longer story later, but the TL;DR is that folks buy a roached out RV thinking that they can live in there and…

Well… things do not always work out. In the industry we call it “Triple P”

• Piss
• Poor
• Planning

Quickly one finds that the project is FAR beyond the scope of their capabilities and understanding. RV’s are built like boats… but with inferior materials. Every single bit of it is stapled, glued, laminated, FUCKING GARBAGE that is totally un-reworkable and a nightmare in full.

Boats… are built just as fucked, but at least they have to use higher quality materials.

RV’s… are built of balsa wood and cheap vinyl

So to fast forward for you…

• The Humans fail to make the space livable
• The roof leaks
• The studs are rotten
• The fabrics are unsalvagable

So… you then “GUT” the RV

Believe it or not… that actually VASTLY increases the value of the vessel! All that liability and labor is out of the way and now you can

• Check for leaks
• Check for creaks
• Seal the mouse holes
• Seal the roof
• Ah……

But -> What folks seem to not understand… is that this either COSTS MONEY or TAKES TIME AND SKILLS. If you dont have an epic skillset for salvaging, all the free time in the world, a solid background in DIY building, a willingness to spend in the right places…

Well… then you FAIL

That is where this story starts. In the failing of “Van Life” aspirations, turned liability. Our target is something that

• May or may not be registered
• May or may not run or even have an engine
• May or may not have a leaking roof
• May or may not have DOT tires rolling
• May or may not have mice
• May or may not have an interior….

It may or may not have an Ingress Rating (IP Rating) sufficient for our purposes

Enter my Application

We need “Mobile Stationary Storage”
Basically we need a dry spot on wheels to house thousands of pounds of lithium batteries

🙂

Source: Toothy Smile Search

Are you starting to smell what I am stepping in?

• Find a half finished RV or Trailer project that is TOO FUCKED to recover
• Haggle down the price by the ACTUAL and CURRENT cost of materials
• Derail their project
• Instead of building a human habitat, build a Battery and Inverter habitat

It will have many properties that we desire*

• The ability to built it in one place and deploy it in another
• All the learnings and backing of standard procedures for sealing
• Nice soft suspension
• Assumed IP Rating
• Reasonable Security
• Yea you could sleep in there…

It will likely come with many things you need!

• A big flat surface on top for panels
• A big flat surface inside for batteries
• A bunch of walls for mounting inverters

Possibly even more….

• An AC cooling system compliant with 12V and vibration rated
• Facilities for passing AC 120V 30A in and out
• Inherent Stealth Mode

The most interesting aspect is the MOBILE part of “Mobile Stationary Storage”. The ultimate is of course a Transportainer…. but one thing everybody misses is the HUGE TILT you suffer when you move one

Better strap your load bruh!

…

Anyhow
I have for many years toyed with the idea of utilizing Cars, RV’s, and Trailers for use as “Battery Housings”. To date I have not had a project LARGE enough to justify such a large space. I now do… with the help of Battery Hookup and poor Chinese Manufacturing… The market is flooding with pull-down lithium in truckloads.

…

Before you scoff
Do some math on how YOU would try to stow cubic yards of cycling lithium.

-Schindler

209XR is a wonder material and priced accordingly. The outgas is horrific but it will set up under water in cold conditions. The setup has 2 stages

• Initial adheasion
• Outgas curing

The 208R will not work as well in cold. It is too stiff and requires WAY too much force to apply (get your initial adhesion). It then does not have sufficient “properties” (elastomer or polymer) to sufficiently cure as the solvents evaporate

• 208R in the Hot Wet
• 209XR in the Cold Wet

If you want to get into regular old 208… that testing is not of interest to me.

….

Next Up?
Preemptive Dry Applications which are not (felt + grip tape), are low cost, can cross-pollinate to mobile and non-wood applications.

Roof Coatings!

….

Then after that

• Actual Roofs
• Applied to Specification

But … by Schindlers Method… we master an activity by first learning the W H Y of proper methods and ways by S U F F E R I N G the consequences of alternate methods and ways. Folks who live in an RV will understand.

• You cant use “Roofing Technology” to fix your RV ( LOL)
• Just picture someone rolling on grip tape (aggregate) with felt (LOL)
• They are F A R more likely to converge on a Silicone or Acrylic roll-on

And… that is what we are actually after here. What materials from the “Roofing Community” can we harness in the building of Solar Outhouses.

Assume-not… that a solar outhouse will be made of wood and stationary! It is far more likely to be built of salvaged materials and mobile. That being the case, my studies into “Patch Materials” (specifically WET patch) are paying out dividents.

SURE

Anybody can wait until the hottest summer day to perfectly apply a bead of clear silicone. That aint the day that you will discover roof leaks on your 42KWH battery.

You are welcome

-Schindler